Fall-ing Slowly
See, I told you I'd post more regularly! And now that I've got you up-to-date on Fringe and a bit of September, I can write closer to real time. What a privilege ;)
Edinburgh has well and truly entered autumn. That being said, fall looks different here. One of the strangest things for me to adapt to last year was the general lack of visual season changes in Scotland. It's lusciously green here almost year-round, meaning a Midwesterner from a four-season state feels a bit unsettled by vivid green grass in October. The dark academia vibe of the city lends itself nicely to spooky season, though.
While autumn has only just begun, my friends and I have been determined to soak up every changing leaf and pumpkin-flavored product. The sun starts setting tragically early here, so it's really a race against the axial tilt. Here's some of the adventures I've gotten up to over the last few weeks :)
Let's Go Glasgow!
I'll be honest: I was not Glasgow's biggest fan when I moved to Scotland. When I visited the city a few years before with Jenna, I had had a good time, but nothing really jumped out at me. But every time I've gone to Glasgow since then, I've liked it more and more, to the point where I've gone no less than three times in six months.
One of those trips? A Flatmate Field Trip with Julianne! Now that we're both working, finding time to have mini adventures together is difficult, but we did manage a day trip to Glasgow in September, Julianne's first foray in the city. If you know Julianne and I, you know that we'll walk for miles to avoid taking the bus, and that pretty accurately summarizes our time there. I think we logged something like 11 miles across the city for no other reason than we wanted to...
We got the majority of our steps in exploring the Glasgow Cathedral and the Kelvingrove Art Gallery. You know a cathedral is impressive if I've voluntarily gone there multiple times, but yeah. Glasgow Cathedral inspires awe. I still marvel at the sheer size and age of the building, not to mention how gorgeous it is.
As I segue into Kelvingrove, I'll just casually mention how nice it is to live somewhere with open access to incredible artwork. Seriously, I'm never more than twenty minutes away from bonafide masterpieces, all of which I can see for free. It's this kind of patronage of the arts that feeds creativity across all fields. When young people get the chance to experience artistry across so many mediums, it encourages critical thinking, promotes emotional development, and so much more.
Anyway! Kelvingrove! Vincent van Gogh! Floating Heads! Messy Marriages! A lovely way to spend the afternoon.
aforementioned floating heads casual van Gogh interactive interpretation of 'Le mariage de convenance' by William Quiller Orchardson
And to conclude our day in Glasgow, one little quirk I encountered on our walk to Kelvingrove...I am incredibly grateful for every travel opportunity I have, and that includes the privilege to visit some places multiple times. Returning to cities I've previously explored allows me to examine them with new awareness and knowledge, and I gain a better understanding of both the place and myself as a result.
I mentioned above that I had gone to Glasgow with Jenna years earlier, yes? And as Julianne and I walked to Kelvingrove, I was struck by a sense of recognition, not deja vu, but just a realization that I have been here before when I was a much different person. And when I looked across the street, I saw the hole-in-the-wall restaurant where Jenna and I had lunch after a walking tour over three years ago. I've been back to Glasgow multiple times since then, but this was the first time I'd stumbled across that pub. It's an odd dissonance, to cross paths with your past and be in such different circumstances. Not a major event, but something I've thought about in the weeks since.
La Vie en Ava Rose
Bestie Visit Alert! Of course, I love all of my visitors, but isn't it extra super amazing fantastic when your oldest friend flies across the Atlantic to spend time with you? Ava and I have been friends for over twenty years. To quote Ava: "That's crazy."
And duh, I so enjoyed my time with her! We squeezed as much as we possibly could into her time here—and I genuinely think she's seen more of Edinburgh proper than anyone else in my family, despite my dad having been to the city multiple times.
A Brief Recap of Our 2026 Bestie Reunion:
Sunday: Besties about town! Ava landed early in the morning, and I proceeded to march her around the city before watching Eclipse because, you know, traditions :)
Monday: Portobello Day! While we couldn't dive in the water like last year's reunion in Menorca, it was still a gloriously sunny day to drink Biscoff banana milkshakes, sit on the beach, and grab a drink at Paradise Palms.
Tuesday: Take a Hike! You haven't really had the Edinburgh Tourist Experience if you haven't climbed Arthur's Seat. Ava got the bonus challenge of extreme wind (!) which made it memorable...to say the least...
Wednesday: Stockbridge & Dean Village & Leith (oh my!) Another high mileage day in which we walked from Old Town down to Dean Village, to then grab lunch in Stockbridge, detour to the Royal Botanic Garden, stroll along the Water of Leith, grab more Biscoff treats at Krema, then finally collapse at home with a Love Island USA marathon.
Thursday: COOS! Certified Animal Lover Ava had a singular request to see the famous Highland Cows on her trip, and thankfully, our furry friends were feeling friendly when we visited the farm. They are so silly and fluffy and emo (because bangs, duh), how can you not adore them?? We spent the afternoon at the National Museum and wrapped things up with Ciccetta's gelato—two more absolute musts for a trip to Edinburgh.
Friday: Hello Holyrood! Ava's last full day in Scotland, so we had to make a trip to some kind of castle/palace/royal dwelling. We went down the Royal Mile to Holyrood Palace, which was actually a new venue for me too. Unlike Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood is still used as a royal residence a few weeks a year, which creates a very time-is-relative mentality as you take the tour. On one hand, you're walking through Mary, Queen of Scots apartments and examining the alleged blood stain from her murdered private secretary; on the other hand, you're passing the halls where King Charles III lives for one week every summer. Or, you know, you're seeing the fusion of these two time periods in rooms that switch over from quasi-museum to functional dining hall. Wild.
Saturday: Goodbye for Now! A very early (not that early, if I'm being honest) bus ride to the airport and another security-gate farewell.
drinks @ paradise palms portobello beach atop arthur's seat! dean village dean village! prince's st gardens coos! emo coo! mwah coo Holyrood Palace audio guide divas holyrood abbey ruins
But yes! Busy week! Always so fun to host friends and family, always so bittersweet to watch them leave.
Side note: why is it always that you never take pictures with your oldest friends?? I literally have one nice photo of the two of us and ten silly .5 selfies from the entire week?? I promise we were together 24/7, you'd just never know it from my camera roll.
And that takes up right up to the end of September! And while I'm only two weeks ahead of this while writing, it really does feel like forever ago because of the seasons changing. I mean, it was sunny for Ava's whole visit here, and then it immediately started raining for a week the moment she left. At least it's finally hot chocolate weather.
Anyway...October has already been so busy, and I've found myself in several unexpected side quests—a fake celebrity sighting and a major athletic accomplishment, to whet your appetite for the next post ;)
As always, thanks for reading! Happy Fall!
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